Make an informed decision.

Author: Ash Bhatt

3 Steps to get the most out of your Air Conditioner

3 Steps to get the most out of your Central Air Conditioner

A building’s central air-conditioning system must be periodically inspected and maintained in order to function properly. While an annual inspection performed by a trained professional is recommended, homeowners can do a lot of the work themselves by following the tips offered in this guide.

Step 1: Clean the Exterior Condenser Unit and Components

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The exterior condenser unit is the large box located on the side of the building that is designed to push heat from the inside of the building to the outdoors. Inside of the box are coils of pipe that are surrounded by thousands of thin metal “fins” that allow the coils more surface area to exchange heat. Follow these tips when cleaning the exterior condenser unit and its inner components — after turning off power to the unit!

  • Remove any leaves, spider webs and other debris from the unit’s exterior. Trim foliage back several feet from the unit to ensure proper air flow.
  • Remove the cover grille to clean any debris from the unit’s interior. A garden hose can be helpful for this task.
  • Straighten any bent fins with a tool called a fin comb.
  • Add lubricating oil to the motor. Check your owner’s manual for specific instructions.
  • Clean the evaporator coil and condenser coil at least once a year.  When they collect dirt, they may not function properly.

Step 2: Inspect the Condensate Drain Line

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Condensate drain lines collect condensed water and drain it away from the unit.  They are located on the side of the inside fan unit. Sometimes there are two drain lines—a primary drain line that’s built into the unit, and a secondary drain line that can drain if the first line becomes blocked. Homeowners can inspect the drain line by using the following tips, which take very little time and require no specialized tools:

  • Inspect the drain line for obstructions, such as algae and debris. If the line becomes blocked, water will back up into the drain pan and overflow, potentially causing a safety hazard or water damage to your home.
  • Make sure the hoses are secured and fit properly. 

Step 3: Clean the Air Filter

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Air filters remove pollen, dust and other particles that would otherwise circulate indoors. Most filters are typically rectangular in shape and about 20 inches by 16 inches, and about 1 inch thick. They slide into the main ductwork near the inside fan unit. The filter should be periodically washed or replaced, depending on the manufacturer’s instructions. A dirty air filter will not only degrade indoor air quality, but it will also strain the motor to work harder to move air through it, increasing energy costs and reducing energy efficiency. The filter should be replaced monthly during heavy use during the cooling seasons. You may need to change the filter more often if the air conditioner is in constant use, if building occupants have respiratory problems, if you have pets with fur, or if dusty conditions are present.

 

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Your home’s lungs – HRV or ERV unit

HRV (Heat Recovery Ventilator) or ERV (Energy Recovery Ventilator) is an equipment found in newer homes.

As new and existing homes become increasingly more airtight, the need for fresh air can be attained by installing an ERV or HRV. Not only will it bring in the fresh air, but it will also eliminate many of the pollutants in your home and recover the heat/cooling from the indoor air as it exits your home. They also help improve indoor air quality. ERVs can also transfer moisture and so affect indoor humidity.




Tight construction helps save energy, but it can also make your air stale and stuffy. Attached garages can contain contaminants such as car fumes that can seep into your home. Spray-Foam insulation helps keep your home warm, but it also means indoor air is continually recirculated.

No matter how careful you are, there will always be some pollutants in your home and, therefore, a need for ventilation. Additional information on indoor air quality is available from the Canada Mortgage and Housing Corporation’s Canadian Housing Information Centre.

Components of an HRV or ERVsystem:

An HRV system consists of the following equipment:

• insulated ducts for incoming (fresh) and outgoing (stale) air, with exterior hoods

• ductwork to distribute fresh air throughout the home and to return stale air to the HRV

• fans to circulate air throughout the home and to exhaust stale air to the outdoors

• a heat-exchange core, where heat is transferred from one air stream to the other

• filters to keep dirt out of the heat-exchange core

• a defrost mechanism (some units use a preheater) to prevent the heat-exchange core from freezing and blocking when the temperature of the incoming air is cold.

• a drain to remove any condensation from inside the unit (HRV only – ERV does not have it)

• operating controls to regulate the unit according to ventilation needs

Your ERV / HRV unit requires periodic checking and maintenance.

The Seven Steps to Healthy House with a proper HRV / ERV maintenance

Step 1: Turn Off Your unit: First, turn off your unit and unplug it.

Step 2: Clean or Replace Air Filters: Dirty or clogged filters can lower ventilation efficiency. Try to clean your filters at least every two months. Filters in most new units can be easily removed, cleaned with a vacuum cleaner, then washed with mild soap and water before being replaced. Older units have replaceable filters. If your unit is easily accessible, this is a five-minute job.
Step 3: Check Outdoor Intake and Exhaust Hoods: Remove leaves, waste paper or other obstructions that may be blocking the outside vents of your unit. Without this vital airflow, your unit won’t function properly. During winter, clear any snow or frost buildup blocking outside vents.
Step 4: Inspect the Condensate Drain: Check to see if your HRV has a condensate drain — a pipe or plastic tube coming out of the bottom. If it does, slowly pour about two liters of warm, clean water in each drain pan inside the HRV to make sure it is flowing freely. If there’s a backup, clean the drain.
Step 5: Clean the Heat Exchange Core: Check your HRV/ERV owner’s manual for instructions on cleaning the heat exchange core. Vacuuming the core and washing it with soap and water will reduce dust that can build up inside the core.
Step 6: Clean Grilles and Inspect the Ductwork: Once a year, check the ductwork leading to and from your unit. Remove and inspect the grilles covering the duct ends, then vacuum inside the ducts. If a more thorough cleaning is required, call your service technician.
Step 7: Service the Fans: Remove the dirt that has been accumulated on the blades by gently brushing them. Most new units are designed to run continuously without lubrication, but older models require a few drops of proper motor lubricating oil in a designated oil intake. Check your manual for complete instructions.

Your HRV should be serviced annually. If you are not comfortable doing it yourself, contact a qualified technician.




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Deck – building and safety

More than 2 million decks are built and replaced each year in North America.  It is estimated that of the 45 million existing decks, only 40% are completely safe. Building and maintaining deck remains one of the most popular home renovation activity.

 Deck inpection.
Because Decks appear to be simple to build, many people do not realize that decks are, in fact, structures that need to be designed to adequately resist certain stresses. Like any other house or building, a deck must be designed to support the weight of people, snow loads, and objects.  A deck must be able to resist lateral and uplift loads that can act on the deck as a result of wind or seismic activity.  Deck stairs must be safe and handrails graspable.  And, finally, deck rails should be safe for children by having proper infill spacing.  
 




A deck failure is any failure of a deck that could lead to injury, including rail failure, or total deck collapse.  There is no international system that tracks deck failures, and each is treated as an isolated event, rather than a systemic problem.  Very few municipalities perform investigations into the cause of the failure, and the media are generally more concerned with injuries rather than on the causes of collapses.  Rail failure occurs much more frequently than total deck collapses; however, because rail failures are less dramatic than total collapses and normally don’t result in death, injuries from rail failures are rarely reported. 
Here are some interesting facts about deck failure:
  • More decks collapse in the summer than during the rest of the year combined.
  • Almost every deck collapse occurred while the decks were occupied or under a heavy snow load.
  • There is no correlation between deck failure and whether the deck was built with or without a building permit.
  • There is no correlation between deck failure and whether the deck was built by a homeowner or a professional contractor.
  • There is a slight correlation between deck failure and the age of the deck.
  • About 90% of deck collapses occurred as a result of the separation of the house and the deck ledger board, allowing the deck to swing away from the house.  It is very rare for deck floor joists to break mid-span.
  • Many more injuries are the result of rail failure, rather than complete deck collapse.
  • Deck stairs are notorious for lacking graspable handrails.
  • Many do-it-yourself homeowners, and even contractors don’t believe that rail infill spacing codes apply to decks.

This document does not address specific building codes, balconies, lumber species, grade marks, decks made of plastics or composites, mold, or wood-destroying insects.

This document focuses on single-level residential and commercial wood decks.  Recommendations found within this document exceed the requirements of both InterNACHI’s Residential Standards of Practice and the International Standards of Practice for Inspecting Commercial Properties.
A proper deck inspection relies heavily on the professional judgments of the inspector.  If you would like to schedule an inspection; feel free to go to prismhomeinspections.
Deck Loads:
A deck inspection should progress in much the same order as deck construction.  Inspectors should start at the bottom.  If a deck is deemed unsafe from underneath, the inspector should not walk out onto the deck to inspect decking, handrails, etc. The inspector should stop and report the safety issues.

The image above depicts an evenly distributed deck load.  Building codes require decks to be designed to carry a uniformly distributed load over the entire deck.  If evenly distributed, half of the load is carried by the deck-to-house connection, and the other half is carried by the posts.




The image above depicts a typical deck load distribution.  People tend to gather near the railings of a deck, and so more load is likely carried by the posts.
Hot tubs filled with water and people are heavy and can weigh a couple of tons.  Most decks are designed for loads of 40 to 60 pounds per square foot.  Hot tubs require framing that can support over 100 pounds per square foot.
Footings and Posts:
Required footing depths vary based on local building codes.  The depth is normally below the frost line, or 12 inches (where frost lines are not applicable).

The above image depicts the 7-Foot Rule.  On steep properties, the slope of the ground around the footing could affect the footing’s stability.  The 7-Foot Rule states that there should be a least 7 feet between the bottom of a footing and daylight.




Posts in contact with soil should be pressure-treated and oriented so the cut end is above grade.
The image above depicts a free-standing deck (not attached to the home or building).  A footing near a home must be on undisturbed soil.  Some codes consider soil to be “undisturbed” if it hasn’t been disturbed in more than five years.  It may be difficult to find undisturbed soil near the foundation of a new home.
Unattached post.
The image above depicts a post base that is not attached to its footing.  Posts should be connected to their footings so that the posts don’t lift or slip off.

Pre-cast concrete pier.

The image above depicts a pre-cast concrete pier.  Posts can lift out of pre-cast concrete piers, and piers can slide.  Posts should be connected to their footings so that the posts don’t lift or slip off.

The image above depicts a proper post-to-footing connection.  Posts should be connected to their footings so that the posts don’t lift or slip off their footings.
The image above depicts an adjustable post-to-footing connection.  Posts should be connected to their footings so that the posts don’t lift or slip off their footings.

The above image depicts a lawn sprinkler keeping a deck post wet.  Lawn sprinkler systems that regularly keep the deck wet contribute to decay. 
 
The image above depicts a downspout contributing to post decay.  Downspouts should not discharge near deck posts.
 
The image above depicts the indentation left over from the footing hole, causing a puddle.  Puddles contribute to post decay.
Wood can decay and degrade over time with exposure to the elements.  Decay is a problem that worsens with time.  Members within the deck frame that have decayed may no longer be able to perform the function for which they were installed. Paint can hide decay from an inspector and so should be noted in the report.
                                   

The image above depicts a “pick test.”  The pick test uses an ice pick, awl or screwdriver to penetrate the wood surface.  After penetrating the wood, the tool is leveraged to pry up a splinter, parallel to the grain, away from the surface.  The appearance and sound of the action are used to detect decay.  The inspector should first try the pick test in an area where the wood is known to be sound to determine a “control” for the rest of the inspection.  Decayed wood will break directly over the tool with very few splinters, and less or almost no audible noise compared to sound wood.  The pick test cannot detect decay far from the surface of the wood.
 
The image above depicts a pick test on a deck post.  Although deck inspections are visual-only inspections, inspectors may want to dig down around posts and perform pick tests just below grade level to look for decay.
      
The image above depicts a high deck being supported with 4″x 4″ posts.   Tall 4″x 4″ posts twist under load and 4″x 4″ posts, even when treated, decay below grade too quickly.  In all but the lowest of decks, deck posts should be at least 6″x 6″, and be no higher than 12 feet; 14 feet is acceptable if cross-bracing is used. 
Often, the bottoms of the stringer boards for deck stairs have been found to rest on soil, concrete block or rock, as opposed to resting on posts installed below the frost line.  Posts set on soil are subject to rot due to moisture.  Posts that are set in unsound footings may cause movement and make the deck above unstable.
 
Girders and Beams:
 
The image above depicts the minimum distance of untreated support members from grade.  Untreated joists should be at least 18 inches away from the ground.  Girders should be 12 inches away from the ground.  However, in many situations, exceptions are made where the elevation of the home does not provide for these minimum distances and the climate is very dry.

Girder-post connection.
The image above depicts a girder improperly relying on the sheer strength of lag bolts.  Girders should bear directly on posts.
Notched post to beam attachment.
The image above depicts a girder properly resting on a notched post.  Girders should bear directly on posts.
 Proper girder to post connection.
The image above depicts a girder properly resting on a post.  Girders should bear directly on posts.
Girders supporting joist should not be supported by deck ledgers or band joists.
  
The image above depicts a butt joint improperly located within a girder span.  Butt joints in a girder span are generally not permitted unless specially engineered.  Butt joints typically must be located above posts. 





The image above depicts notches in a supporting beam.  Notches must be less than one-quarter the depth of the member.  On the tension and compression faces, the notch depth must be less than one-sixth of the member’s depth, and the notch length must be less than one-third of the member’s depth.  Notches are not permitted in the middle third of spans, or on the tension face of members that are greater than 3½ inches thick.
Inspecting for beam sag. 
The image above depicts a level being used to check for beam sag.  Even with a carpenter’s level, it can be difficult to see beam sag from the front.
 
The image above depicts beam sag being eyed-up.  Often it is easier to detect beam sag by eye than with a level by looking along the bottom edge of the beam.
Ledger Connection:
 
The most common cause of deck collapse is when a ledgers pulls away from the band joists of homes and buildings.
The two most common ways to correctly attach a ledger to a structure are with lag screws or through-bolts.  The installation of through-bolts requires access to the back-side of the rim joist which, in some cases, is not possible without significant removal of drywall within the structure.
Most building codes state that, where positive connections to the primary building structure cannot be verified during inspection, decks shall be self-supporting (free-standing).
Determining the exact required spacing for the ledger fasteners is based on many factors, including:
  • joist length;
  • type of fastener;
  • diameter of fastener;
  • sheathing thickness;
  • use of stacked washers;
  • type of wood species;
  • moisture content;
  • band joist integrity; and
  • deck loads…
…and so is beyond the scope of a visual inspection.  However, the spacing of ledger fasteners is primarily determined by the length of the joists. 
InterNACHI’s ledger fastener spacing formula provides inspectors with a rule-of-thumb:
On-center spacing of ledger fasteners in inches = 100 ÷ joist length in feet.
Note that this formula is for guideline only and is not intended to replace any code requirement. A deck with substantially fewer ledger fasteners than that recommended by InterNACHI’s formula may be unsafe.

The image above shows the minimum distance of fasteners to the edges and ends of a ledger board.  Lag screws or bolts should be staggered vertically, placed at least 2 inches from the bottom or top, and 5 inches from the ends of the ledger board.  Some codes permit the lag screws or bolts to be as close as 2 inches from the ends of the ledger board; however, avoiding the very ends of the ledger boards minimizes splitting from load stress.
Through-bolts should be a minimum of ½-inch in diameter, and have washers at the bolt head and nut.  Lag screws should also be a minimum of ½-inch in diameter and have washers.  Expansion and adhesive anchors should also have washers.
Deck ledgers should be of at least 2’x 8′ pressure-treated wood.
Ledger Board and Band Joist Contact:
  
The image above depicts washers being used as spacers between the ledger board and band joist, which is incorrect.
In some cases, the ledger board and band joist are intentionally kept separated by a stack of washers on the lag screw or bolts to allow water to run between the two boards.  In other cases, there is insulation between the two boards.  Even worse is when the siding or exterior finish system was not removed prior to the installation of the ledger board.  Situations like this, where the ledger board and band joist are not in direct contact, significantly reduce the strength of the ledger connection to the structure and are not recommended by InterNACHI, unless the two members are sandwiching structural sheathing.
 
The image above depicts a ledger board and band joist sandwiching the structural sheathing (correct).
All through-bolts should have washers at the bolt head and nut. 
 
The image above depicts a hold-down tension device.  The 2007 IRC Supplement requires hold-down tension devices at no less than two locations per deck. 
Codes in some areas outright forbid attaching a ledger board to an open-web floor truss.
The image above depicts a ledger board attached to a concrete wall.  Caulking rather than flashing is used.
The image above depicts a ledger board attached to hollow masonry.  When the ledger is attached to a hollow masonry wall, the cell should be grouted.
The image above depicts a ledger board improperly supported brick veneer.  Ledger boards should not be supported by stone or brick veneer.
Ledger boards should not be attached directly (surface-mounted) to stucco or EIFS, either.  Stucco and EIFS have to be cut back so that ledger boards can be attached directly to band joists; however, cut-back stucco and EIFS are difficult to flash and weather-proof.
Ledger board flashing.
The image above depicts both over and under ledger board flashing.  The ledger board should always be flashed even when the home or building has a protective roof overhang. 
 
Aluminum flashing is commonly available but should not be used.  Contact with pressure-treated wood or galvinized fasteners can lead to rapid corrosion of aluminum.
 
The image above depicts a deck ledger attached to an overhang.  Decks should not be attached to overhangs.
 
 
The image above depicts proper framing around chimneys or bay windows that are up to 6 feet wide.  Framing around chimneys or bay windows that are more than 6 feet wide requires additional posts.
Maximum cantilever.
The image above depicts a cantilevered deck.  Joists should be cantilevered no more than one-quarter of the joist length and three times the joist width (nominal depth).  Both conditions must be true.
Maximum cantilever.
The image above depicts a joist cantilever in the front of the deck and girder cantilevers on both sides of deck posts.  Joists should be cantilevered no more than one-quarter the joist length and three times the joist width (nominal depth).  Girders can be cantilevered over their posts no more than on-quarter the girder length.
 
There are three ways a joist can be attached to a ledger:
 
The first is by resting the joist on a ledger strip.  The image above depicts a joist properly resting on a 2″x 2″ ledger strip.
Joist notched over ledger strip. 
The second is by notching over a ledger strip.  The image above depicts a notched joist properly resting a 2″x 2″ ledger strip.
 
The third is by hanging the joists with joist hangers.  The image above depicts joists properly attached to a ledger by way of metal joist hangers.
The image above depicts a joist cut too short.  Joists may rest on 2″x 2″ ledgers like the one above (or in joist hangers), but joists must be cut long enough to reach the ledger or band joist that is supporting them.
 
The image above depicts joists that are not fully resting in their joist hangers.  Joists should be fully resting in their joist hangers.
 
Bracing:
The image above depicts a deck with post-to-joist diagonal bracing.  Decks greater than 6 feet above grade should have diagonal bracing from posts to girder, and from posts to joists.
The image above depicts a deck with post-to-girder diagonal bracing.  Decks greater than 6 feet above grade should have diagonal bracing from posts to girder, and from posts to joists.
Free-standing decks (not supported by the home or building) should have diagonal bracing on all sides.
The image above depicts underside diagonal bracing of a deck.  Decks greater than 6 feet above grade that do not have diagonal decking should have diagonal bracing across the bottoms of the joists to keep the deck square.  A deck that is not held square could permit the outer posts to lean to the right or left, parallel to the ledger board, and thus twist the ledger away from the home or building.
 
Cracks:
As wood ages, it is common for cracks to develop. Large cracks (longer than the depth of the member) or excessive cracking overall can weaken deck framing.  Toe-nailed connections are always at risk for splitting.  Splitting of lumber near connections should be noted by the inspector.
Connectors and Fasteners:
The inspector should note missing connectors or fasteners.  All lag screws and bolts should have washers.
The image above depicts a “hammer test.”  Depending on how the deck was built, vital connections may have degraded over time due to various factors.  Issues such as wobbly railings, loose stairs, and ledgers that appear to be pulling away from the adjacent structure are all causes for concern.  The tightness of fasteners should be checked.  If it is not possible to reach both sides of a bolt, it may be struck with a hammer. The ring will sound hollow with vibration if the fastener is loose.  The ring will sound solid if the connection is tight.  The hammer test is subjective, so the inspector should hammer-test bolts that can be confirmed as tight or loose, and compare the sounds of the rings to develop a control.
Corrosion of Connectors and Fasteners:
 
All screws, bolts and nails should be hot-dipped galvanized, stainless steel, silicon bronze, copper, zinc-coated or corrosion-resistant.  Metal connectors and fasteners can corrode over time, especially if a product with insufficient corrosion-resistance was originally installed. Corrosion of a fastener affects both the fastener and the wood.  As the fastener corrodes, it causes the wood around it to deteriorate.  As the fastener becomes smaller, the void around it becomes larger.  Inspectors normally do not remove fasteners to check their quality or size, but if the inspector removes a fastener, s/he should make sure that removal doesn’t result in a safety issue.  Fasteners removed should be from areas that have the greatest exposure to weather. Some inspectors carry new fasteners to replace ones they remove at the inspection.  
 
Posts and Rails:

Missing posts.

The image above shows a guardrail supported solely by balusters.  Guardrails should be supported by posts every 6 feet.
The image above depicts a notched-deck guardrail post attachment.  This common notched-type of attachment is permitted by most codes, but could become unsafe, especially as the deck ages.  Because of leverage, a 200-pound force pushing the deck’s guardrail outward causes a 1,700-pound force at the upper bolt attaching the post.  It is difficult to attach deck guardrail posts in a manner that is strong enough without using deck guardrail post brackets.
Notched guardrail post.
The image above depicts a notched-deck guardrail post attachment.  This notched-around-decking type of attachment is permitted by most codes, but could become unsafe, especially as the deck ages.  Because of leverage, a 200-pound force pushing the deck’s guardrail outward causes a 1,700-pound force at the upper bolt attaching the post.  It is difficult to attach deck guardrail posts in a manner that is strong enough without using deck guardrail post brackets.

The image above depicts a deck guardrail post properly attached with brackets.  Because of leverage, a 200-pound force pushing the deck’s guardrail outward causes a 1,700-pound force at the upper bolt attaching the post.  It is difficult to attach deck guardrail posts in a manner that is strong enough without using deck guardrail post brackets.
Level cut post and balusters.
The image above depicts a post and balusters cut level and not shedding water.  The end-grain of vertical posts and balusters should not be cut level.
Angle cut post and balusters.
The image above depicts a post and balusters properly cut at angles to shed water.  The end-grain of vertical posts and balusters should be cut at an angle.
 
Missing Guardrails:
 
Decks that are greater than 12 inches above adjacent areas should have guardrails around the edges.  Some codes require guardrails only around the edges of decks 30 inches or higher.
Improper Guardrail Height:
 
Most residential codes require the top of the guardrail to be at least 36 inches from the deck surface.  Most commercial code height is 42 inches.
The image above depicts child-unsafe guardrail infill.  Infill should not permit a 4-inch sphere to pass through.
The image above depicts horizontal balustrades.  Ladder-type guardrail infill on high decks is prohibited by some local codes because they are easy for children to climb over.
 
Decking:
Decking overhang <= 6 inches.
The image above depicts deck framing near a chimney or bay window.  The ends of decking boards near the chimney or bay window can extend unsupported up to 6 inches.
Improperly spaced decking. 
The above image depicts decking that is laid too tight.  Decking should have 1/8-inch gaps between boards so that puddles don’t form.

The above image depicts decking that is properly spaced.  Decking should have 1/8-inch gaps between boards so that puddles don’t form.
The image above depicts decking that isn’t staggered properly.  Decking should be staggered so that butt joints don’t land on the same joist side by side.
The image above depicts decking lengths.  Some are too short.  Each segment of decking should bear on a minimum of four joists.
Decking should be attached to the floor joists and rim joist, especially in high-wind areas.
Decking Nail Pull-Out:
Inspectors should look for splitting in decking and nail pull-out.  Aside from the structural issue, nails that have pulled out or screws that are not driven into the decking fully can cause injury to bare feet.
Stairs:
Deck stair stringer.
The image above depicts a deck stair stringer.  Stair stringers shall be made of 2″x 12″ lumber at a minimum, and no less than 5 inches wide at any point.
Stair stinger span.
The image above depicts deck stair stringers.  Stringers should be no more than 36 inches apart.
Stair ledger strips.
The image above depicts ledger strips properly located under stair treads.  Where solid stringers are used, stair treads should be supported with ledger strips (as depicted), mortised, or supported with metal brackets.
Open stair risers.
The image above depicts a set of stairs with open risers.  Most deck stairs have open risers and are not safe for children.  Risers may be open but should not allow the passage of a 4-inch diameter sphere.
Uniform riser height.
The image above depicts stair riser height.  To minimize tripping, the maximum variation amongst riser heights (difference between the tallest and shortest risers) should be no more than 3/8-inch.
The bottom step of a stairway leading up to a deck is typically at a different height than the rest of the steps.  This can present a trip hazard.
Steps with open risers can present a tripping hazard if a user catches his foot by stepping too far into the tread.  To mitigate this hazard, the risers can be closed or the treads can be made deeper.
Deck Lighting:
Decks rarely have light sources that cover the entire stairways.  Any unlit stairway is a safety issue.
Stair Handrails:
Stairs with four or more risers should have a handrail on at least one side.  According to the International Standards of Practice for Inspecting Commercial Properties, ramps longer than 6 feet should have handrails on both sides.
Handrail height.
The image above depicts proper stair handrail height.  Handrail height should be between 34 and 38 inches measured vertically from the sloped plane adjoining the tread nosing.
The image above depicts a stair handrail that is not graspable.  Many deck handrails improperly consist of 2″x 6″ lumber or decking.  Handrails should be graspable, continuous and smooth.
The images above show that handrail ends should be returned or terminate in newel posts.
The next three images depict graspable handrails:
Graspable handrail.

The three images directly above depict graspable handrails.  Many deck handrails improperly consist of 2″x 6″ lumber or decking.  Handrails should be graspable, continuous and smooth.
Minimum distance between handrail posts.
The image above depicts the minimum distance between stair handrail posts.  Stair handrails should have posts at least every 5 feet.
Stair child safety.
The image above depicts permitted spacing at stairs.  Larger spacing presents a child-safety issue.
Electrical Receptacle:
The image above depicts a deck with an electrical receptacle, but the receptacle does not have a weatherproof cover.  As of 2008, the National Electric Code requires at least one receptacle outlet on decks that are 20 square foot or larger.
Weatherproof receptacle cover.
The image above depicts a weatherproof receptacle cover.  The deck receptacle should have a weatherproof cover.
Deck Location:
Poor deck location.
The image above depicts a deck located above a septic tank access.  Decks should not be located where they might obstruct septic tank accesses, underground fuel storage tanks, well heads, or buried power lines.
Deck obstructing emergency egress.
The image above depicts a deck obstructing a basement bedroom’s emergency egress window.  Egress openings under decks and porches are acceptable, provided the escape path is as required by code or local by-law, and the path of egress is not obstructed by infill or lattice.
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Safety for Seniors – Bathroom slip and fall

According to the StatCan website, in Canada; more than 60% of senior injury is attributed to falling. Out of which, more than 50% happen within four walls of the house or walking. This is quite disturbing statistics and most of these injuries are avoidable by following few simple protocols and being proactive. Let’s take a step by step approach to understanding causes and prevention of one of the most common household fall injuries.

Falling in the bathroom can be due to multiple reasons:

  • Insufficiently secured towel racks that could fall when gripped for support;
  • Shower chairs that are not slip resistant;
  • Bathtubs that are difficult to step into and out of;
  • Sliding shower doors that could move unexpectedly when entering and exiting the tub;
  • Slippery bathtub and shower floor surfaces;
  • Slippery floor tiles, especially when wet; and
  • Low toilets heights that are difficult to get up from easily.

There are ways to avoid the fall.

  • Place a Bathroom Floor Mat in front of the sink and shower/tub such as Uphome Vintage Retro. Look for the non-slip backing bottom surface and highly absorbent top surface. You can find many designs and colors but ensure that they have what is needed for safety.
  • Install Grab Bars for support in the bathtub; shower and toilet. Be very careful here because the Grab Bars come in many different types. Read the label.
    • Most of the cost-effective suction cup bars ONLY assist with balance. They will have minimal weight support rating.
    • Permanent Secure Mount Grab Bars are better at supporting the weight. The devil is in the detail and you must ensure that they are secured to a strong backing reinforcement such as wall stud or plywood. Newer code requires having the support reinforcement in the main bathroom.
  • Use a shower chair for better balance during showering. A shower chair can provide stability for an elder with difficulty balancing and a rest place for those who have difficulty standing for long periods of time. A good shower chair has rubber tips on the legs to prevent sliding. When used with a hand-held shower head, an elder can remain seated while bathing.
  • Use a raised toilet seat. Elders may have difficulty lowering themselves down to sit on a low toilet seat and rising to a standing position safely. A raised toilet seat reduces the amount of squatting and the distance that has to be covered to sit on the toilet. Grab bars on the raised seat itself provide added safety.
  • Put toiletries within reach. Elders with poor balance should not have to stretch or bend down for the shampoo bottle or soap. Mount an easy to reach liquid soap dispenser on the bathtub or shower wall to prevent reaching, bending and unsteadiness.
  • Lighting. Is the pathway from the bedroom to the bathroom dark? A poorly-lit pathway can easily cause a fall. Use night lights to create a well-lit path to the bathroom. Having nightlights in the bathroom helps as well.
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Prepare yourselves for the rainstorm

Tips to help you prepare – Courtesy of Allstate

  • If safe, clear eavestroughs and downspouts of leaves and debris to help water drain properly. If possible, clear debris from storm drains on your street.
  • Move electronic equipment and other items out of the basement to a higher floor.
  • If it looks like water intrusion may occur, shut off the electricity immediately.
  • When the rain hits, check for the latest emergency information. If told to leave your area, do so immediately and be sure to follow the recommended evacuation routes.
  • Keep out of any standing water. Hazards from floating debris, sewer contamination, live electrical wires and slippery footing can make wading in flood waters extremely dangerous.
  • If outdoors, climb to high ground. Never cross floodwaters as water as shallow as 15 cm could sweep you off your feet.
  • If you come to a flooded area in your vehicle, turn around, head for elevated ground and park there. As little as 60 cm of water can carry a car away.

After the storm has passed:

  • Do not turn on the power after significant water damage. Ask your hydro company for assistance
  • If possible, record details of any damage before you begin clean up. Take photos or video to help with your insurance company’s assessment.
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Which filter should I use in my furnace

Furnace filter is one of the most important and easiest item to maintain or improve your indoor air quality. Replacing the filter regularly is also important for the furnace blower. A standard furnace filter replacement frequency is 3-4 months. This is one maintenance aspect you DO NOT WANT TO MISS for the sake of your family’s health because the air you breath is filtered through it.

Every household will have different internal and external factors and needs. The filters start at a couple of bucks for the most basic one and go in the range of 50-60 $ or more depending upon the filter quality and rating.

Here is a quick chart explaining the filter need and price range. There are 3 general ratings criteria – MERV, MPR and FPR. Higher the rating (number), more expensive and better filtering capacity it will have.

MERV: Minimum Efficiency Reporting Value

MPR: Microparticle Performance Rating (used by 3M/Filterate)

FPR: Filter Performance Rating (used by Home Depot)

Interestingly enough, a high value (HEPA) filter is not recommended for furnaces because it may put a heavy burden on the furnace blower. Please make sure that the size of the filter you are buying matches with the size your furnace requires.

Some examples of different rated filters are: Filtrete MPR 300Nordic MERV 8Filtrete MPR 1000Nordic MERV 12Filtrete MPR 1500

Here is easy to understand comparison between different ratings and what it means for you.

MERV-MPR-FPR-Ratings-Compared

Please be sure to let me know if this information is helpful to make an informed decision next time you are in the market.

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Kidde Safety Alert

Just wanted to bring to your attention to a safety recall for “SMOKE AND CARBON MONOXIDE” alarms. The alarm installed in your house may be affected and eligible for a replacement.
Please check out:
Step 1. CHECK THE BRAND OF THE ALARM. IF IT IS “KIDDE”; THEN PROCEED TO STEP 2

kidde 1

Step 2. CHECK IF IT IS HARD WIRED OR BATTERY OPERATED ONLY. THE ONE SHOWN IN THE PICTURE ABOVE IS HARDWIRED AND THE ONE AFFECTED BY THE RECALL. ONE WAY TO CHECK IS TO TWIST IT OPEN FROM ITS BASE AND CHECK IF THERE ARE WIRES CONNECTED TO IT. IF IT IS HARD WIRED, THEN PROCEED TO STEP 3.

Step 3. CHECK MODEL NUMBER ON THE BACK OF THE ALARM. YOUR ALARM MAY BE AFFECTED IF THE MODEL NUMBER IS: KN-COSM-IBCA or KN-COSM-ICA, PROCEED TO STEP 4. THE PICTURE BELOW SHOWS WHERE TO FIND THE MODEL NUMBER.Kidde 2

Step 4. CHECK MANUFACTURE DATE. IT CAN BE FOUND AS SHOWN IN THE PICTURE ABOVE.

Step 5. IF THE MANUFACTURING DATE IS BETWEEN JUNE 2004 AND MARCH 2011, THEN YOUR ALARM IS AFFECTED BY THIS SAFETY RECALL.

Step 6. YOU NEED TO CHECK ALL ALARMS INSTALLED IN YOUR HOUSE FOR THE ABOVE INFORMATION.

Step 7. CALL KIDDE CUSTOMER CENTRE AT 855.239.0490 AND FOLLOW INSTRUCTIONS PROVIDED BY KIDDE REPRESENTATIVE

Here is the web link to the product alert: https://inmarmarketaction.com/kidde217/

ABOUT ALARMS: The price for new alarm ranges from low 20$ to over 100$ depending on your requirements. The alarm comes primarily as a combination or single purpose as well as either battery operated or hard-wired (with or without battery backup). Here are some examples:

Kidde KN-COSM-IB – Smoke and Carbon Monoxide Alarm – Detects Flaming Fires and/or CO Hazard – Voice Message Warning – 120V Wire-in with Battery Backup – Interconnectable

Nest Protect smoke & carbon monoxide alarm, Battery (2nd gen)

First Alert SCO5CN Battery Operated Combination Carbon Monoxide/Smoke Alarm

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Have you checked your filters lately?

Mechanical equipment filters in your house impact different aspects of your life namely; Indoor Air Quality, Equipment performance and Cleanliness.

Collage of filters

Most houses will have these filters:

  • HVAC (furnace),
  • Clothes dryer,
  • Rangehood,
  • Dishwasher drain,
  • Window screen.

In addition, some houses will have

  • Fridge water line,
  • ERV or HRV,
  • Drinking water fountain,
  • Humidifier,
  • A/C exterior unit,
  • Furnace condensate neutralizer.

It is important that you find out what your house has. Filters can range from a complicated assembly to a simple screen.   When changing a filter, it is recommended to record the date it was changed.

HVAC (Furnace) filter

The most commonly understood generic term for the filter and equally important also. Replace it every 3 months at least if you have central AC. If you have pets or newly built house with construction work still going around, it is more likely to get dirty sooner; so it’s important to check on a monthly basis. Most furnaces have common sizes available from large hardware or home improvement stores. One important thing to note here is ensuring the right orientation of the filter. The arrow shown on the filter frame must point towards blower fan.

furnace filter

Why: Two answers: One – it significantly impacts your indoor air quality and two – it impacts the performance of the blower motor. Obviously, replacing the filter regularly has a positive impact on both.

How: There are many different types of the filters available in the home improvement stores. They range quite a bit in price and quality. Buy the one that suits your lifestyle. Some furnaces come with electronic air cleaner and it needs to be cleaned

     furnace filter 2 electronic air cleaner

Clothes Dryer

The filters for the clothes dryer are located either on the top of the unit on top loading dryers or inside the unit on front loading dryers. After the dryer load, the lint trapped in the filter should be cleaned. In Canada, we use our clothes dryer probably excessively. It is also recommended to have the dryer ducting between the dryer and the exterior cleaned about once a year.

dryer filter

Why: Failure to clean out lint traps is the main cause of dryer fires, according to Friebe. A blocked vent or exhaust pipe blocks hot air from release, turning the highly combustible lint into a fire hazard. Excess lint in your dryer trap can cause the dryer to work harder resulting in performance issues like long time taken to dry the clothes.

How: Pull out the filter screen and clean it thoroughly with the help of a brush. Place it back in place.

Humidifier

If you have a humidifier, clean the filter every year before the start of the heating season.

humidifier_filter

Why: The humidifier operation affects air quality. Over time, the screen or filter gets clogged with mineral deposits and may develop mildew spots.

How: Clean all the spaces around the filter first with a mild solution of bleach and water. After that, you can clean the base beneath the filter with vinegar. The vinegar residue will help prevent future build-up and add a pleasant tang to the air as well. Rinse it thoroughly after cleaning. If the mildew is spotty and hard to remove, place the filter in the bleach above and soak for a good hour until you’ve gotten it all. For the filters that are made of certain kinds of plastic or some materials can be harmed by chemicals, do not use vinegar and bleach soakings, just simply rinse and soak the filter in clean water.

Heat Recovery Ventilator (HRV)

HRV filter

Many builders now provide HRV or ERV (Energy Recovery Ventilator). These units provide a source of fresh filtered air into the house and exhaust the stale air. The heat recovery takes place in the core of the unit so that the incoming air is already slightly warm before coming into the house. Most HRV’s have 3 filters – two foam filters (sometimes metal screens) and one exchange core unit.

Why: HRV or ERV units are designed to bring the fresh air in your house and thus impacts the indoor air quality.

How: Every 4 to 6 months, turn off the unit and pull out the foam sheet filters. Wash them thoroughly and let them dry prior to putting back in. Once a year remove the core as well and rinse it well, let it dry and place back. The instruction labels are usually placed inside the unit.

Dishwasher drain filter

       dishwasher drain 2 dishwasher drain 1

Depending on the type of dishwasher, these filters may be easily removable (twist by hand) or may need tools. The clogged filter means the water does not drain and dishes/pots do not clean well. Check your dishwasher manual regarding recommendations but generally cleaning every 3-4 months does the job.

Window or sliding door screens

             window screen window screen dirt

The screens allow fresh air ventilation on a reasonably good day. They filter out bugs or debris larger than the screen size, which make them dirty. Screens may also get damaged due to improper handling or impact. It is a good idea to wipe clean them with a damp sponge in spring and fall.

Air Conditioner exterior unit

Chances are that if you’ve neglected a spring checkup, your air conditioner didn’t cool nearly as well as it could. Regarding cleaning part, check the outside of the condenser housing for buildup of debris. For better efficiency, trim the vegetation around the unit to allow free air movement.

cleaning ac filter

Why: Dirt and debris clogging the cooling fins and a dirty blower fan filter can significantly reduce the efficiency of your air conditioner and wear it out faster. In older units, the heat exchanger fins can be exposed, be careful not to damage the heat exchanger fins.

How: Using a garden hose with low/no pressure spray the outside to remove buildup of dust, dirt, leaves, and whatever else is stuck on the side. The units pictured are extreme examples of buildup. Much less buildup can still cause issues in cooling. Start by spraying off the outside at an angle and the buildup will come off in a ‘Peeling’ fashion. Then finish up by spraying from the inside out to clean out debris stuck within the fins.

Kitchen Range Hood

Range hood filterw will accumulate grease and dust, reducing their effectiveness.   If the unit recirculates air through the hood back into the room, it will likely also have a carbon filter behind the screen.  Replace these as needed.

 kitchen hood filter
Why: Clogged filters keep the humidity inside the house instead of removing it. Also the grease and dirt reduce the life of the blower motor.
How: Clean the screen according to manufacturer’s recommendations. For standard filters – let them soak for 10 minutes. Scrub the filters: After soaking, take a non-abrasive scrub brush and scrub the filters. Add more dish soap to your brush if required while you scrub. Rinse and dry: Rinse the filters thoroughly in hot water and dry with a paper towel or clean cloth.

Fridge and countertop drinking water filters

fridge water fridge water filter fridge water filter 2

If you have a countertop drinking water tap or fridge with drinking water/ice dispenser. Make sure the filters of these units are replaced as per manufacturer’s instructions. A clogged water filter is far worse than having none due to the potential health impact.

Condensate neutralizer

condensate neutralizer

High-efficiency gas furnaces may  have a condensate neutralizer on the condensate drain line. These units look like a cylinder made with black ABS plastic or white plastic with the inlet attached to the line coming from condensate drain trap & the outlet goes to the floor drain. The neutralizer is meant to keep the acidic water discharge from polluting the city waste water. If blocked, this will keep water from flowing freely to the drain line and create a back flow into the furnace. In severe case, the furnace may stop working.

 

Now take a few minutes to walk around your house and look for these items.  My home inspection service will guide you through the specifics of your house and I will even find operating manufacturers manuals for you if you need them.    This is what I do to help owners improve the comfort, safety and value of their homes.

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Condensation – An annoying cold weather problem

Condensation is the accumulation of liquid water on relatively cold surfaces. In this article I have attempted to inform the causes and cures of the condensation.
How does it form:
Condensation on window

Almost all air contains water vapor, the gas phase of water composed of tiny water droplets. The molecules in warm air are far apart from one another and allow the containment of a relatively large quantity of water vapor. As air cools, its molecules get closer together and squeeze the tiny vapor droplets closer together, as well. A critical temperature, known as the dew point, exists where these water droplets will be forced so close together that they merge into visible liquid in a process called condensation. This liquid starts forming on the coldest surface of the house, which is the window glass.

Lets briefly talk about a slightly different type of condensation here as well, which forms between two panes of double-pane windows. Double-pane windows have a layer of gas (usually argon or air) trapped between two panes of glass that acts as insulation to reduce heat loss through the window. Other types of gas used in this space have various effects on heat gain or loss through the window. Some windows also have a thin film installed between panes that separates the space between the panes into two spaces, further reducing heat loss and heat gain through the window. If multiple-pane windows appear misty or foggy, it means that the seal protecting the window assembly has failed.

Foggy window

The seal failure is generally caused due to saturation of silica desiccant material absorbing the infiltrating moisture inside the space between two panes.

A double-paned window that appears foggy or that has visible condensation has failed and needs to be repaired or replaced.

What causes it to form:

Condensation causes

Condensation is caused by high humidity which is in turn caused by a number of factors including but not limited to:

  1. People and pets (breathing, sweating, intense activity)
  2. Plants
  3. Shower
  4. Cooking
  5. Clothes washer/dryer
  6. Building material in new construction

What happens if it is neglected:

Condensation damage

Mold and wood-staining fungi can grow on a wetted organic (wood, paint, paper) surface above 15 deg C. and 60 % Relative Humidity. For wood destroying fungi to grow, though, wood fibers must be saturated (about 30% moisture content) and warm. Most building experts consider wood above 18 to 20 % moisture-content to be at risk of rot or mold.

These decay causing fungi grow fast at a warmer temperature, but can grow at lower temperatures, as low as 0 degC. depending on the mold genera and species. Indoor mold is both a rot or building damage hazard and a potential indoor air contaminant that can be a serious problem especially for people who are sensitive such as people who are immune-impaired, allergic, asthmatic, or have other medical or respiratory vulnerability.

Both building rot repair and building mold remediation jobs can be very costly where large areas are involved.

Symptoms of too much or too little humidity

Condensation Control

In the winter, keep the relative humidity low (in the range of 30-45% – lower as it gets colder outside). Purchase an inexpensive hygrometer to monitor humidity. Typical residential hygrometer

Here are some ways to control humidity:

  1. Keep your HRV (or ERV) running if your home has one.
  2. Run kitchen and bathroom exhaust fan every time and keep them on for 5-10 minutes after use.
  3. Make sure your clothes dryer and basement bathroom vents actually exhausts outside of the house
  4. Open the window curtains for at least few hours to allow air to circulate between the curtain and the window
  5. Indoor plants add to humidity. Do not have too many plants.
  6. Check and make sure there is no water leak from outside or plumbing

Thermal Imaging as a Detection Tool

Infra Red images

Under the right conditions, it’s possible to use an infrared (IR) camera to detect failed windows or moisture damage. IR cameras are designed to record differences in temperature. Prism Home Inspections can assist with detecting moisture leaks and resultant damage before it becomes difficult to resolve.

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