As GTA is continuing to deal with the record-breaking rainfall, I wanted to suggest you these simple steps that will ensure that the rainwater stays out of your home – where it belongs.

Clean your eavestroughs (roof gutters) of debris. You can do it in few different ways.

Why: Debris in the gutter will block the flow of water towards downspout and eventually to the drain. As a result, it may overflow, damaging fascia board, soffit and/or roof sheathing and end up in the living area through the attic. Lack of proper gutters is also a major factor in the moisture related issues. In order to do their job properly, gutter downspouts should have splash blocks or flexible downspout extensions to prevent ponding, puddling and splash-back near the foundation. You should arrange to clean your gutters twice a year. If the gutters are full of leaf debris, pine needles or shingle grit, rainwater will overflow and cascade over the under-eave structures, possibly causing moisture related damage.

How:

1. Cheapest but labour intensive method: place an extension ladder at the edge and remove debris by hand or brush. Make sure to wear good quality gloves. Be safe and always work in team when using a ladder.
2. As an alternative, use a Rain Gutter Cleaning Tool available on Amazonsimilar to this telescopic watering wand attached with a garden hose or pressure washer.            
3. Get the help of a professional eavestrough cleaning company.

Maintain the grade around the house.

Why: The grade should slope down away from the house on all sides. A general rule of thumb is 1/2″ to 1″ for every foot. The grade sloping toward the house is the leak waiting to happen through the foundation wall. Many basement leaks can be corrected by just improving the grade. Newly built houses are more susceptible to grading issues because of the settlement during first few years. (Photo courtesy: InterNachi)

How: For new house owners, your builder is responsible for final lot grading but you are responsible to maintain that eventually. For older houses, it is strongly recommended to get assistance from a professional unless you are a handy person experienced in lot grading.

Ensure proper exterior caulking around the house

Why: exterior caulk prevents moisture from seeping in through the joints and corners. A good quality, properly done caulking can last as much as 5-8 years at which time it needs to be re-done. Look for caulk around windows, at dissimilar joints and at corners.

How: You need to redo the caulking if it is shrunk, has developed cracks and turned brittle. New house owners should ensure that their builder has caulked at all required areas on exterior (and interior). exterior caulking requires more skill than interior because of the height and/or size. In case of larger gaps, you may also need foam backer rod to support the caulk.

It is very important to note that different types of caulk are used in different locations and that some knowledge is required when selecting the correct caulking product.Be aware that some types of sealants are not designed for exterior exposure. If caulking compounds of an improper type are applied where they are exposed to sunlight, heat and weather, relatively early failure of the applied sealant should be anticipated. If interior-type sealants are inadvertently applied to exterior exposure, they should be removed as soon as the first indication of deterioration becomes evident.

So just by following these 3 simple steps, you can minimize any likelihood of rainwater leaking in the house.

If you already suspect a leak but cannot figure out the location or amount of damage, thermal imaging is a very powerful tool that can assist you. For the negligible cost, it can help you determine the location of the issue and suggest a resolution.

Here is an example of moisture that is not visible with naked eye but detected by thermal imaging camera.

For any home inspection needs including Tarion warranty inspections, remember to contact your neighbourhood home inspector at 416.315.5737. Visit www.prismhomeinspections.com for more information.

Carbon monoxide (CO) is a colorless, odorless, tasteless, poisonous gas that forms from incomplete combustion of fuels, such as natural or liquefied petroleum gas, oil, wood or coal.

Facts and Figures

• More than 50 people die each year from carbon monoxide poisoning in Canada, including 11 on average in Ontario.
• Most of the deaths associated with CO occur in sleep.
• Hundreds of Canadians are hospitalized every year from carbon monoxide poisoning, many of whom are permanently disabled.  Everyone is at Risk – 88% of all homes have something that poses a carbon monoxide threat.
• Bill 77, an Act to Proclaim Carbon Monoxide Awareness Week and to amend the Fire Protection and Prevention Act, 1997, received royal assent in December 2013.
• The first Carbon Monoxide Awareness Week took place November 1-8, 2014.
• The Ontario Building Code requires the installation of carbon monoxide alarms in homes and other residential buildings built after 2001.

Physiology of Carbon Monoxide Poisoning

When CO is inhaled, it displaces the oxygen that would ordinarily bind with hemoglobin, a process the effectively suffocates the body. CO can poison slowly over a period of several hours, even in low concentrations. Sensitive organs, such as the brain, heart and lungs, suffer the most from a lack of oxygen.

High concentrations of carbon monoxide can kill in less than five minutes. At low concentrations, it will require a longer period of time to affect the body. Exceeding the EPA concentration of 9 parts per million (ppm) for more than eight hours may have adverse health affects. The limit of CO exposure for healthy workers, as prescribed by the U.S. Occupational Health and Safety Administration, is 50 ppm.

Potential Sources of Carbon Monoxide

Any fuel-burning appliances which are malfunctioning or improperly installed can be a source of CO, such as:

• furnaces;
• stoves and ovens;
• water heaters;
• dryers;
• room and space heaters;
• fireplaces and wood stoves;
• charcoal grills;
• automobiles;
• clogged chimneys or flues;
• space heaters;
• power tools that run on fuel;
• gas and charcoal grills;
• certain types of swimming pool heaters; and
• boat engines.

CO amount and related health effects

CO Detector Placement
CO detectors can monitor exposure levels, but do not place them:

• directly above or beside fuel-burning appliances, as appliances may emit a small amount of carbon monoxide upon start-up;
• within 15 feet of heating and cooking appliances, or in or near very humid areas, such as bathrooms;
• within 5 feet of kitchen stoves and ovens, or near areas locations where household chemicals and bleach are stored (store such chemicals away from bathrooms and kitchens, whenever possible);
• in garages, kitchens, furnace rooms (enclosed), or in any extremely dusty, dirty, humid, or greasy areas;
• in direct sunlight, or in areas subjected to temperature extremes. These include unconditioned crawlspaces, unfinished attics, un-insulated or poorly insulated ceilings, and porches;
• in turbulent air near ceiling fans, heat vents, air conditioners, fresh-air returns, or open windows. Blowing air may prevent carbon monoxide from reaching the CO sensors.

Do place CO detectors:

• within 10 feet of each bedroom door and near all sleeping areas, where it can wake sleepers. The Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) and Underwriters Laboratories (UL) recommend that every home have at least one carbon monoxide detector for each floor of the home, and within hearing range of each sleeping area;
• on every floor of your home, including the basement (source:  International Association of Fire Chiefs/IAFC);
• near or over any attached garage. Carbon monoxide detectors are affected by excessive humidity and by close proximity to gas stoves (source:  City of New York);
• near, but not directly above, combustion appliances, such as furnaces, water heaters, and fireplaces, and in the garage (source:  UL); and
• on the ceiling in the same room as permanently installed fuel-burning appliances, and centrally located on every habitable level, and in every HVAC zone of the building (source:  National Fire Protection Association 720). This rule applies to commercial buildings.

Ontario is taking another step to keep families and homes in Ontario safe by making carbon monoxide alarms mandatory in all residential homes.
The new regulation, which comes into effect October 15, 2014, updates Ontario’s Fire Code following the passage of Bill 77 last year. These updates are based on recommendations from a Technical Advisory Committee which was led by the Office of the Fire Marshal and Emergency Management and included experts from fire services, the hotel and rental housing industries, condo owners and alarm manufacturers.
Carbon monoxide alarm will now be required near all sleeping areas in residential homes and in the service rooms, and adjacent sleeping areas in multi-residential units. Carbon monoxide alarms can be hardwired, battery-operated or plugged into the wall.

Broadly speaking, these amendments will have the following effect:

• Testing and maintenance requirements that apply to smoke alarm now apply to CO alarms
• Under the Fire Code amendments, CO alarms will be required in existing residential occupancies, where:
• Single dwelling homes (e.g., privately owned homes) have an attached storage garage and/or a fuel burning appliance.
• CO alarms will be required only near sleeping areas of these occupancies and not throughout the entire home.
• Multi-unit buildings (e.g., apartment buildings or condominium buildings, hotels, etc.) have an attached storage garage and/or a fuel burning appliance/service room. Within these buildings, CO alarms will only be required:

Near sleeping areas of suites that contain a fuel burning appliance within the suite.

Near sleeping areas of suites that are adjacent to a storage garage and/or service room with a fuel burning appliance.

See more at: Ontario Association of Fire Chiefs website

How can I prevent CO poisoning?

• Regularly maintained appliances that are properly ventilated should not produce hazardous levels of carbon monoxide
• Have a qualified service professional inspect your fuel burning appliance(s) at least once per year.
• Have you chimney inspected and cleaned every year by a W.E.T.T. certified professional.
• Be sure your carbon monoxide alarm has been certified to the Canadian Standard Association (CSA) CAN/CGA 6.19 standard or the Underwriters Laboratories (UL) 2034 standard.
• Install a carbon monoxide alarm in or near the sleeping area(s) of the home.
• Install the carbon monoxide alarms(s) in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions.
• Never service fuel-burning appliances without the proper knowledge, skill and tools. Always refer to the owner’s manual when performing minor adjustments and when servicing fuel-burning equipment.
• Never operate a portable generator or any other gasoline engine-powered tool either in or near an enclosed space, such as a garage, house or other building. Even with open doors and windows, these spaces can trap CO and allow it to quickly build to lethal levels.
• Never use portable fuel-burning camping equipment inside a home, garage, vehicle or tent unless it is specifically designed for use in an enclosed space and provides instructions for safe use in an enclosed area.
• Never burn charcoal inside a home, garage, vehicle or tent.
• Never leave a car running in an attached garage, even with the garage door open.
• Never use gas appliances, such as ranges, ovens or clothes dryers to heat your home.
• Never operate un-vented fuel-burning appliances in any room where people are sleeping.
• During home renovations, ensure that appliance vents and chimneys are not blocked by tarps or debris. Make sure appliances are in proper working order when renovations are complete.
• Do not place generators in the garage or close to the home. People lose power in their homes and get so excited about using their gas-powered generator that they don’t pay attention to where it is placed. The owner’s manual should explain how far the generator should be from the home.
• Check vents. Regularly inspect your home’s external vents to ensure they are not obscured by debris, dirt or snow.

In summary, carbon monoxide is a dangerous poison that can be created by various household appliances. CO detectors must be placed strategically throughout the home or business in order to alert occupants of high levels of the gas.

The summer was short as always and now that kids are back to school, its time to think about upcoming fall and home maintenance associated with it. Here are some quick fall maintenance tips.

Check and clean your gutters: No matter what size, shape, location or height; your roof’s drainage system annually diverts thousands of gallons of water from your house’s exterior and foundation walls. It is critical to keep this system flowing smoothly to prevent any water damage to your structure. Clogged gutters can lead to damaged exterior surfaces and to water in your basement. They are also more prone to rust and corrosion. Before the fall, have your gutters cleaned. You may also want to have them covered with mesh guards to keep debris from returning.

Exterior cracks and gaps sealing: A home with air leaks around windows and doors wastes a lot of energy and can potentially allow water inside. Gaps in caulk and weather-stripping can account for as much as 10% of your heating bills.

Weather-stripping is easily the most cost-effective way to reduce heating and cooling costs. It also reduces drafts and keeps your home more comfortable year-round. Because weather stripping can deteriorate over time, it is important to inspect it periodically.

If you suspect a problem with weather stripping, you have several options for checking. Close a door or window on a strip of paper; if the paper slides easily, your weatherstripping isn’t doing its job.

While you’re at it, also check for missing or damaged caulk around windows, doors, and entry points for electrical, cable, phone, gas, and so. Seal any gaps with a suitable caulk.

Fix roof problems before its too late: Leaky roof is probably one of the most worrisome and annoying problem that the homeowner may encounter. Once the dripping starts, finding the source of the problem can be time-consuming. Stop problems this fall before ice and winter winds turn them from annoyances into disasters.

DIY roof inspection: Inspect your roof from top to bottom, using binoculars if necessary. Check ridge shingles for cracks and wind damage. Look for damage to metal flashing in valleys and around vents and chimneys. Scan the entire roof for missing, curled, or damaged shingles. Look in your gutters for large accumulations of granules, a sign that your roof is losing its coating; expect problems soon. Pay special attention to the roof facing South West direction as in most cases the shingle wear starts from there.

Driveway and Walkway: Damaged walkways, drives, and steps are a hazard year round, but their dangers are compounded when the weather turns icy. Fixing problems in the fall is also critical to preventing little problems from becoming expensive headaches.

Look for cracks more than 1/8-inch wide, uneven and/or settled sections, and loose railings on steps. Check for disintegration of asphalt, or washed-out materials on loose-fill paths.

Most small jobs are well within the ability of a do-it-yourselver, but save major repairs for experienced professionals.

Clean or replace furnace filter: Furnace filters trap dust that would otherwise be deposited on your furniture, woodwork, and so on. Clogged filters make it hard to keep your home at a comfortable temperature, and can increase your utility bills. A simple monthly cleaning is all it takes to keep these filters breathing free and clear.

Here’s how: Disposable filters can be vaccumed once before replacement. Foam filters can also be vaccumed, but they don’t need to be replaced unless they are damaged. Use a soft brush on a vacuum cleaner. If the filter is metal or electrostatic, remove and wash it with a firm water spray.

Furnace system maintenance: Once a year, it’s a good idea to have your heating system inspected by a professional. To avoid the last-minute rush, consider scheduling this task in early fall, before the heating season begins.

Here are signs that you should have an inspection performed sooner:

Noisy belts. Unusual screeches or whines may be a signal that belts connected to the blower motor are worn or damaged.

Poor performance. A heating system that doesn’t seem to work as well as it once did could be a sign of various problems. Your heating ducts might be blocked, the burners might be misadjusted, or the blower motor could be on its last legs. One check you should be sure to conduct: Make sure your furnace filter is clean.

Erratic behavior. This could be caused by a faulty thermostat or a misadjusted furnace.

Check out your fireplace: Whether you have gas burning or wood burning fireplace, you should check your fireplace annually for damage and hazards even if you use it only occasionally.

For wood burning fireplace:

• Inspect your flue for creosote. Creosote is a flammable by-product of burning wood. If it accumulates in a flue or chimney, the result can be a devastating fire. Have your chimney inspected annually for creosote buildup. If you use a fireplace or wood stove frequently, have the flue inspected after each cord of wood burned.

• For most people, the best option is to have your entire chimney system inspected by a chimney sweep. Once you know what to look for, you can perform the inspection by shining a bright flashlight up the flue, looking for any deposits approaching 1/8 inch thick. These deposits should be cleaned by an experienced chimney sweep.

• Look for flue blockages. Birds love to nest at the top of an unprotected flue. A chimney cap can prevent this from happening. If you don’t have a cap, look up the flu to ensure that there are no obstructions.

• Exercise the damper. The damper is the metal plate that opens and closes the flu just above the firebox. Move it to the open and closed positions to ensure that it is working properly.

• Check your chimney for damage. Make certain that the flue cap (the screen or baffle covering the top of the chimney) is in place. Inspect brick chimneys for loose or broken joints. If access is a problem, use binoculars.

For gas burning fireplace:

• Check exhaust / chimney for any mechanical damage or blockage. Its essential that the exhaust works properly to prevent dangerous fumes from entering your home.
• Vacuum the area around supply pipe and controllers carefully to remove debris without damaging parts.
• Have ceramic logs checked for breakage / deterioration, valves and pipes for leakage & thermopile/thermocouple for wear. This should be done by a professional.
• Gas fireplaces are susceptible to explosions and sudden fires, if there are any leaks or malfunctions. One problem that occurs is that the pilot light will be on, the gas turned to the “on” position, but the fireplace isn’t operating.

Maintain your humidifier: As much as dry winter air is bad for your health, it can also make wood floor, cabinetry and furniture more prone to cracking. You and your home will feel more comfortable if you keep your central humidifier in good shape during the months it is running.

Here’s how: First, inspect the plates or pads, and if necessary, clean them in a strong laundry detergent solution. Rinse and scrape off mineral deposits with a wire brush or steel wool.

Smoke and CO detectors: Replace the batteries in each smoke and carbon monoxide (CO) detector, then vacuum them with a soft brush attachment. Test the detectors by pressing the test button. If you haven’t already, install a smoke detector on every floor of your home, including the basement.

Fire extinguishers and escape plans: Every home should have at least one fire extinguisher rated for all fire types (look for an A-B-C rating on the label). At a minimum, keep one near the kitchen; having one per floor isn’t a bad idea. Annually, check the indicator on the pressure gauge to make sure the extinguisher is charged. Make certain that the lock pin is intact and firmly in place, and check that the discharge nozzle is not clogged. Clean the extinguisher and check it for dents, scratches, and corrosion. Replace if the damage seems severe. Note: Fire extinguishers that are more than six years old should be replaced. Mark the date of purchase on the new unit with a permanent marker.

Every bedroom, including basement bedrooms, should have two exit paths. Make sure windows aren’t blocked by furniture or other items. Ideally, each upper-floor bedroom should have a rope ladder near the window for emergency exits. Review what to do in case of fire, and arrange a safe meeting place for everyone away from the house.

Natural stone in your home is earth’s beautiful piece having variety of types and characteristics. It’s popular today in different applications due to its durability and maintenance. It’s imperative to remember however, that different stones, although similar in appearance, may have different characteristics, and as a result have varying tolerances. It’s important to know what stone you have in your home and apply appropriate maintenance procedures, and precautions in order for it to serve for the life.

Different Types of Natural Stones Used in Residential Applications

Granite

Granite is considered “hard” rock. It is an ignenous rock which means that at one time during its development, it was melted like volcanic lava. Unlike lava, however, this melted (or molten) rock never reached the surface. It remained trapped inside, where it slowly cooled and crystallized, resulting in a very uniform, speckled stone that ranges in colour from black and gray tones to pinks, browns, and reds. It is formed deep beneath the earth’s crust, and rises from the molten magma, forming at temperatures in the thousands of degrees.

Granite is especially popular for use as flooring or countertops. Unlike marble, granite is a relatively hard, non- porous, natural stone. It is relatively resistant to most household kitchen products and handles heat extremely well. Some granite however, can be stained by some liquids or darkened by oils. It is therefore best to practice preventative maintenance procedures, seen on following pages. Care involves regular cleaning with warm, soapy water.

In a study conducted by the Hospitality Institute of Technology and Management, measuring the bacteria resistance capacity of common countertop materials, granite came second to stainless steel.

Marble

Marble has been valued for thousands of years for its rich palette of beautiful colours and is perfect pretty much anywhere in the house, especially for foyers, fireplaces and bathroom walls, floors and vanities. Marble is usually polished to a mirror-like shine and runs the colour gamut from white and muted beiges to browns, rich reds and greens.

True marbles are generally white or whitish, sometimes translucent, with some veining or colour provided by other minerals present during the process of metamorphosis. Foreign substances often entered the stone during this process, creating an infinite variety of colours, asters, and veining. Marble is a lot like snowflakes, no two pieces are exactly alike. Marble also has a variety of densities, many are lighter than granite, while others may be similar. Most marble has a higher absorption rate and lower abrasion resistance compared to granite.

Marble’s kitchen use should be considered carefully, due to oil absorption. When polished, it requires high level of maintenance when used as flooring in high traffic areas.

Marbles range in hardness from 4-5 on the tenpoint MOHS scale (diamonds are 10; granites are ±7).

Slate

Slate is a fine grained, crystalline rock derived from sediments of clay and fine silt which were deposited on ancient sea bottoms. Superimposed materials gradually consolidated the sedimentary particles into bedded deposits of shale. Mountain building forces subsequently folded, crumpled, and compressed the shale.

At the same time, intense heat and pressure changed the original clays into new minerals such as mica, chlorite, and quartz. By such mechanical and chemical processes bedded clays were transformed, or metamorphosed, into slate, whole geologic ages being consumed in the process. Slates vary in composition, structure, and durability because the degree to which their determinant minerals have been altered is neither uniform nor consistent.

Limestone

Limestone has been used as exterior building cladding since time immemorial. Though most of it is gone, looted to build other structures, the Great Pyramids in Egypt were originally clad in smooth, perhaps even polished, limestone, as are many of the great cathedrals of Europe, such as Notre Dame in Paris. Sadly, many of these have fallen victim to a more modern menace, the acids found in polluted air, which have actually dissolved the surfaces and deteriorated the stone.

Limestone is light in density and has a higher absorption rate and lower abrasion resistance than most marble and all granites. Limestone will require more time consuming maintenance than harder stones. Beware of limestone for high stress areas.

Limestone range in hardness from 3-7 on the tenpoint MOHS scale (diamonds are 10; granites are ±7).

Marble, Slate and Limestone are considered “soft” stones.

Stone Finishes

The finish of a stone contributes a great deal to its beauty, its durability and its use in a variety of applications. Here’s some information on finishes:

Polished: Large machines progressively grind the stone to a specular, mirror-like finish.

Honed: This less formal, softer-appearing stone has a matte or satin finish.

Flamed: Blowtorch-strength heat is applied to the surface to create a deeply textured surface ideal for outside use.

Tumbled: This stone is tumbled with sand, pebbles or steel bearings to create a weathered, aged finish.

Filled: When travertine is used for tiles and slabs, it is usually “filled”—that is, the surface holes are filled with cement or sometimes epoxy, and then polished or honed like any other stone tiles or slabs.

Preventative Maintenance

Proper preventive and routine maintenance is required to keep stone in good condition.

First and foremost is to “seal” your countertop and floor. By sealing the stone, you are reducing stone’s absorption qualities. Dont forget, it is still the natural stone and has the absorption quality just reduced a bit. If you let any liquid sit on the stone, it will get absorbed and show as a stain on the surface.

Provide floor mats or area rugs inside and outside entrances to prevent dirt,
grit, acidic rain water, rock salt, and ice melt from being dragged across
stone floor. Be sure underside of mats and rugs have nonslip surface.
Keep floor dirt and dust free. Dirt particles can scratch the stone and dust
makes the floor slippery. High traffic areas should be cleaned more often.
Walkways outside of entrances should be swept to prevent dirt particles from entering building.
Clean spills immediately before they stain. Keep water from spilling on the surface, especially around drinking fountains and planters
Keep metal objects away from marble. A metal can could rust and stain marble if exposed to moisture.
Practice regular and appropriate maintenance procedures.
A good rule is to not use anything on stone that you wouldn’t use on your hands.
Do not cut directly on your stone counter top. This can cause deep and permanent scratches to appear.
Avoid directly dropping heavy or sharp objects on your counters.
Avoid flame or applying heat directly to your stone counter tops.
NOTE
Soft stone can be damaged by acids. With polished surfaces, permanent dull areas can develop if exposed. Materials such as wine, fruit juice, cola, vinegar, lemon juice should be kept away from marble, as well as scouring powders which contain abrasives.

Marble isn’t quite as worry-free as granite. It has a softer, less stain-resistant surface than granite and should be treated like a fine piece of wood. Spills should be wiped up immediately, coasters should be placed under beverages to avoid staining and etching. Marble is especially susceptible to damage from citric acids, alcohol’s, and oils. Routine maintenance should include dry dusting with a soft cloth as needed.

Regular Maintenance

Dust mop frequently with clean, non-treated cloths/mops. Dirt and grit are abrasive and scratch stone. Do not use vacuum cleaners on stone floors. The plastic attachments and wheels will scratch the surface. Higher traffic areas need to be cleaned more often.
Clean stone with appropriate cleansers. Do not use vinegar, lemon juice, cleaners that contain acid, or abrasive cleaners. Any cleaning product should be tested in an inconspicuous location to ensure compatibility with the material and to avoid damage.

Garbage is either biodegradable or non-biodegradable. Biodegradable means that it will decay and can become soil. Yes, soil! That is all soil is anyway — decayed plants and animals. Biodegradable items are plants, plant parts, animal waste, and parts of animals, like hair, skin and muscles. Bones too, although they may take a lot longer to degrade. Paper is a good example of a good biodegradable material. It came from trees, so it falls into the “plant parts” category. If you bury a piece of paper in the flowerbed in your back yard, it will decay and in approximately three months’ time, you will not be able to find it.

Non-biodegradable garbage is not going to decay ever or the decay will take thousands of years. These items are usually made from chemicals or minerals that do not break down. Aluminum foil could be buried next to that piece of paper in your back yard and it will look almost like it did the day it was buried — while the piece of paper will be decaying or maybe even gone depending upon how much time you gave the process. Plastic, glass, rubber, and aluminum cans are just a few examples of non-biodegradable trash.

How long will it take to decay different type of garbage?

Glass bottle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 million years
Monofilament fishing line . . . . . . . . . . . . 600 years
Plastic beverage bottles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 450 years
Disposable diapers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 450 years
Aluminum can . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80-200 years
Foamed plastic buoy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80 years
Rubber boot sole . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50-80 years
Foamed plastic cup . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 years
Tin can . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 years
Leather . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 years
Nylon fabric . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30-40 years
Plastic film canister . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20-30 years
Plastic bag . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10-20 years
Cigarette filter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-5 years
Wool sock . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-5 years
Plywood . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-3 years
Waxed milk carton . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 months
Apple core . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 months
Newspaper . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 weeks
Orange or banana peel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2-5 weeks
Paper towel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2-4 weeks

Recycling is probably the best thing you can do to respect our environment and future generation. Please use your communities recycling program.